Week #16: Valle de Oaxaca

We finally made it to Oaxaca! Before we even started our Mexican travels, Oaxaca was the one place that we knew that we wanted to visit. I had been here nearly 30 years ago as a backpacking vagabond and remembered the vibrant fabrics, lively markets and incredible food. What I didn't remember was that this city is swarming with tourists - just like cicadas rising from the ashes!  While I can't remember if it was this way in 1994, Oaxaca is certainly on the gringo trail these days. Despite all of the tourists, Oaxaca is still a very magical place worthy of a visit. There are 16 different groups of indigenous people each of which have their own language: Amuzgo, Cuicateco, Chinanteco, Chocho, Chontal, Huave, Ixcateco, Mazateco, Mixe, Mixteco, Nahuatl, Popolaca, Trique, Zapoteco y Zoque. The strong presence of indigenous people creates a vibrant and dynamic vibe to this city. There are tons of local artisans, street vendors and musicians on almost every street and the markets are some of the best in the country. I'm also told that Oaxaca, more than any other state in Mexico, is quick to protest anything that they're not happy with which I think is a great indicator of a free and strong culture. 

As I've mentioned in previous posts, each region has its own distinct cuisine and local specialties which are revered 'como la comida de los dios!'. Here in Oaxaca they have reinvented the quesadilla with dishes known as tlayudas y memelas. A tlayuda (see photo below) is a thin handmade tortilla covered with refried beans, lettuce/cabbage, avocado, Oaxacan cheese, salsa and meat, if you want it. You could call it a Mexican pizza and you wouldn't be wrong. A memela is a smaller, thicker tortilla that is toasted on a hot comal and then topped with refried beans, crumbly cheese and whatever else they have kicking around the place. Both are delicious and definitely worth trying if you make your way to Oaxaca. Mole is probably what Oaxaca is most famous for and I like it but I must admit that it's not really my favorite dish. I think it may be one of those things that is best enjoyed when you eat meat so it's lost on me. There are also a number of drinks that are local specialties in Oaxaca. Mezcal is Mexico's second most famous liquor (after tequila, of course) and is also made from agave or maguey. It's less processed than tequila and has a more oily, smoky flavor. Oaxaca makes the majority of Mexico's mezcal so you can find it all over the place here. There is a local saying that goes like this: "Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, también; y si no hay remedio litro y medio" ("For all bad, mezcal, and for all good, as well; and if there is no remedy, liter and a half". Pulque and tejate are other drinks that are less alcoholic than Mezcal but also very delicious. Pulque is the fermented sap of agave that is about as alcoholic as beer and is a very refreshing and slightly fizzy beverage. Tejate is a non-alcoholic beverage and is a mix of corn and cacao originating from pre-Hispanic times - it's deeeeeelish! 








My Spanish has not improved at the pace that I've been hoping so I started taking Spanish classes last week. All last week I attended four hours a day of intensive Spanish where we practice grammar for two hours and then converse with each other for two more hours. I'm learning a lot and think that my Spanish will be much better if I continue with these classes for another week or two. While I like it, it does feel a little like being back at work - I'm waking up at 6am again after not doing that for months! 

After being in the city all week, we decided to escape to the countryside for the weekend to see what else is going on in this beautiful valley. We drove east and discovered some real jewels that we honestly didn't even know existed when we left Oaxaca. On Saturday we explored the village and ruins of Mitla which is considered the 2nd most important ruins (after Monte Alban) in the state of Oaxaca. The ruins were very impressive (see photos below) and the village was charming, quaint and a nice respite from the teeming tourists of Oaxaca.   










On Sunday, we visited the Mercado de Tlacolula which is the only market left in all of Mexico where 'el trueque' (bartering) has been preserved between merchants. It was an amazing market to wander through as it attracts merchants from throughout the state of Oaxaca to sell their goods. The food is also amazing and is worth the visit alone. See photo below of Ginny's goat stew which was 'muy rico y delicioso'! One of the photos below is a shot of memelas roasting on the comal. We were also blown away by many of the textiles and bought a beautiful rug for our future home - see photo below. 







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